Audi A3 2015 1.4 TFSI 147bhp oil change

I've written this as I couldn't find a definitive guide as to how to do this online.  I hope it's useful to you.  Although this is the process and equipment I used I don't take any responsibility for the way you do this job.  If you are uncomfortable with doing this please take your car to a qualified mechanic to do the work.  Please make sure you support your car with axle stands and do not rely on the jack to hold it up.

Tools you will need, see pictures at the bottom of this post:

• 13mm socket - sump guard bolts x 9.
• 19mm socket or spanner - sump plug.
• T30 Torx head - sump guard threaded screws x 4 at front.
• T25 Torx head - 7 x self tappers on the sump guard.
• An oil filter removal tool or use brute force.
• 4.5 litres of oil. I used 5w-30 as we're in Scotland and it rarely gets hot.  If we were still on the south coast I'd have used 5W-40. I used Castrol Magnatec.
• A small funnel (optional)
• A replacement oil filter. £6.28 from Euro Car Parts at time of writing.
• A replacement sump plug. The compression washer does not easily come off the Audi one so I bought a replacement from Euro Car Parts for £3.68, plus a spare washer at 69p just in case. If you don't replace the washer you are likely to have a VERY slow drip of oil.
• A bowl of vessel for your old oil.
• A jack and some way of supporting the car while you are underneath, I used axle stands. Do not rely on your jack!
• Chocks for the rear wheels just to be super safe.

The process:

1. Warm up your engine. I changed the oil after a trip to the supermarket.  You can do this with cold oil but it will be thicker and slower.
2. Apply the handbrake then chock the rear wheels, picture below.
3. Jack up and support the car, picture below.
4. Remove the aluminium sump guard and put to one side, picture below. There are lots of screws and bolts so I used an electric screw driver to make things a little faster.
5. The filter and sump plug are very easy to see and replace, picture below.
6. Put your oil catching vessel under the sump plug and remove the plug with your 19mm socket or spanner.
7. Allow all the oil to drain out.
8. Replace and tighten the sump plug with your new plug and washer or with a replacement washer. This does need to be tight.
9. Remove the oil filter again making sure the oil vessel is underneath, picture below.
10. Allow oil to stop running and put on your new oil filter.  Do this up with your hands as too tight causes possible leaks.  If you can't do it hand tight use a tool but don't do it too tight.
11. Remove the oil filler cap and fill up the car with your new oil.  4 litres gets about half way up the dipstick measure.  The oil filler hole is a fairly small so be careful not to put too much oil in, and use a funnel as it's a bit tight around the filler to wipe away spillage.
12. Once 4 litres is added briefly run the engine to fill the new filter and oil ways.
13. Stop the engine and retest with the dip stick. Top up as required.  Remember your car should be on level ground, if it's not or jacked up and an angle wait until it is to retest the level.
14. Check underneath for any oil leakage. Hopefully none will appear. I left the car for an hour in case there were any very slow leaks.
15. If there are no drips appearing replace the sump guard.  This is easier with 2 people. I used blocks of wood to support the sump guard about 2 inches below the bolt holes to allow me to get the 13mm bolts in first.  Then I added the rest of the screws.
16. I also added Copper Lube grease on the threads so they were easier to remove next time as a few were quite corroded.